Mexico City: It’s Crowded

I’m sure you’ve heard it before, but Mexico city is outrageously crowded. If, at any point in time, you aren’t looking at every car in the known universe, then you’re looking at every human being in the known universe. That much is clear and widely known.

What does that mean, though? What does the size of the city’s crowd have to do with life in that city? That’s the tasty question. I’m going to try and answer it.

First, we’ll whet our appetites with some data. How crowded, exactly, is Mexico City? I’m super excited right now, you guys.

If the green cells are the highest for a dimension, and the orange cells are second-highest, then the data set my pants on fire when I looked at them for the first time. I’ve always paired “Mexico City” with “20 million people” and “one of the most crowded places on Earth.” That’s a huge number of people making a sardine can out of a city, according to my original ideas. That means I also routinely say things that link those ideas when I go on about how crowded Mexico City probably is. That also means I’ve been saying the wrong things. Can someone please lend me some pants?

Crowded Center

The data suggest something different, though. In fact, the place with the ungodly-enormous population is Greater Mexico City, otherwise known as the Federal District of Mexico City, otherwise known as a semi-state (I don’t know for sure, but it seems to function similarly to Washington D.C.). Mexico City (the city) has a population way closer to something we would see in the US. New York has a very similar population, for example.  Overseas, London’s population is also just about the same as Mexico City’s. And just forget about Asia. Even the smallest of its top 10 cities–Manila–has twice the population of Mexico City.

But population isn’t a measure of crowdedness, is it? Population density is the data set from which all of the sense comes. The 21-million-person Federal District’s density is around 2,000 people per square kilometer. That’s more dispersion than in Munich, and Munich feels like the least crowded city on the face of the planet. Mexico City’s (the city) density, however, is around 5,000 people per square kilometer. That’s a lot, and it means its about as dense as Manila, the 10th largest city in Asia. Ahhh, now I understand why I felt like I needed a bulldozer to cross the street in Mexico City.

Ok, you get it. Mexcio City: it’s crowded. For some extra fun, though, consider this other data.

Required Population Growth of Select Cities

If you really want to know how crowded Mexico City is, look at the data above. I’m pretty sure most of you reading this have been to at least one of those cities. Imagine over 3 times the number of people currently living in Houston! Imagine Venice growing by a factor of more than 8! Dallas growing by a factor of almost 4! Holy cow! Those would have to happen for those cities to feel as highly populated as Mexico City (the city).

This post–well, the rest of a post which already happens to be well underway–is about 3 ways the hyper dense population of Mexico City (the city) affected my time there.

Cityscape1. It takes over an hour to take a bus across town.

I escorted La Señora (more on Roxana’s mom in a future post) to a checkup at the Doctor’s office in the middle of the city. We began our journey at the south end of the city. I read a chapter and a half in my book before we reached the office. Two things about that:

  • I analyze while I read, so I’m a slow reader.
  • My book is A Feast for Crows. Oktoberfest is to beer as that book and the others in its series are to analyzable content.

If I knew the name of the doctor’s office, I could have just given you the distance we traveled in kilometers so you could compare it to the time it would take you to travel that distance in your city. Enjoy the overly complicated alternative.

Anyway, while most freeways on Earth are designed to facilitate transportation around a city, Periférico and, indeed, the rest of Mexico City’s streets, appeared designed for car storage instead. They were crowded all day and night, is what I’m trying to say. You should never take “a quick trip across town” lightly in Mexico City, is what I’m trying to say.

Looks Quiet2. LOOOOOOOOUUUUD NOISES!!!!

Peace and Quiet are Aztec relics in Mexico City. If you look hard enough, you’ll see vestiges of an era when the two may have existed–a library here, a small cafe there, a green park with some benches and a fountain way off in the distance. Mostly, however, you’ll find things that make a lot of noise, all the time.

You’ll wake up in the morning to Mexico City’s streetside symphony. I personally really enjoy the first movement, in which the jackhammer section unexpectedly accompany the sirens and car horns. It establishes a striking contrast that positively sets my soul on fire. Truly. You’ll eat lunch to the sound of what can only be a private Pitbull concert next door. When you ask your local friend why nobody complains, she’ll tell you (as Rox’s sister Karen told me) that it’s more likely that the police will just collect a bribe from the offenders and let them continue, anyway. And you’ll hear more of the streetside symphony. Finally, when they day is over and you seek the comfort of a long night’s rest, you’ll have the sweet sounds of diesel engines, Pitbull and the streetside symphony to lull you to sleep.

It’s noisy all the time, is what I’m trying to say.

Selling in a Park3. The food there is outrageously good.

The food truck/stand/kiosk/tent is to Mexico City as the YouTube channel is to the US and Canada. Absolute tons of people in the area possess the skills and the means to create at (at least) the amateur level. The result is that way more high-quality producers than any one person needs to know surface through social curation. And, if you get a kick out of discovery, then you’ll find a billion other options lining alleys, streets, freeways, parking lots, and store entrances everywhere.

“Hey. Pssst. On Tuesdays, find the dark alley behind the convenience store just off the freeway. There are some guys there who make spellbindingly good pastor tacos. Go on Tuesday, because they sell them two-for-one on that day.”

“Hey. Pssst. Go to YouTube and type in ‘Fast Food Lasagna.’ This group of Canadian guys  buy, like, 45 burgers and make lasagna out of them. It’s insane!”

Mexico City was an absolutely outstanding time, is what I’m trying to say.

Keiko, I Found the Enchiladas

It took me awhile, but I finally found them in Puerto Escondido. Before I get started, here’s a shamelessly beautiful picture of that town.

A Topside View of Puerto Escondido

Good. Now that I’ve gotten that out of my system, I’ll continue.

Keiko, you asked me about what real enchiladas are like, and immediately I was interested in finding out for myself. I don’t know what they’re like in Japan, but in Texas, they’re essentially a small burrito (or a large Taco) covered in salsa and cheese (and maybe sour cream). Another way of saying it is that, in Texas, they look like this:

Tex Mex Enchiladas

I’ve been told that Mexican enchiladas are mostly the same, except that instead of normal red salsa and green salsa, you can also opt for mole (which Mexicans happen to call “red salsa”). Mole is so complex that it probably requires some knowledge of sorcery to create it, but the two most discernible ingredients are red chile and chocolate. Delicious.

Anyway, the enchiladas I found were not like the ones they serve in Texas. Instead, the eatery featured it on their breakfast menu and offered it in 6 varieties: Egg, Chicken or Tasajo (thinly sliced steak), and either salsa verde or salsa rojo (a.k.a. mole, in this case). The dish starts with a layer of corn tortilla pieces. Then, they cover that in some kind of white cheese. Then, they cover that in lettuce. Then, they put a piece of meat or egg on top. And then, they drown it all in the sauce. I took the Tasajo con Salsa Rojo. It was glorious. Take a look at that magnificent beauty, below. Next to it is the market where I ate it.

Genuine EnchiladasMercado en Puerto Escondido

This is probably the most delicious post I’ll ever write, so I’m going to get breakfast, now.

That Month I Spent in Mexico

Crowded Market - TepostlanThis Month, I’m in Mexico. Technically, I’ve been here before, but the locals (including Roxana’s family and the security guy at the airport) tell me that Cozumel and Progreso are not Mexico. So, I guess I’m new here. I’m staying in Mexico City.

I’m about to start writing maybe 1,000 or so posts about what it’s like living here. My views aren’t as informed as a local’s, or even as informed as an exchange student’s. But, because I’m here for just about a month, and I’m living with a Mexican family (Roxana’s), I feel comfortable saying those views are more informed than a tourist’s.

Here’s a rundown of the subjects about which I’ll be writing in the next days and weeks. Each one will probably get their own post.Crowded Street - Tepostlan

– Driving in Mexico City is hilarious
– Mexican Police: To serve and protect the shit out of this country
– Puerto Escondido
– Soccer matches (revisiting Mexico’s law enforcement strategy)
– How to tell which Mexican food is the best
– Getting sick in Mexico is not always what you think it will be
– Mexico City is crowded (but maybe you won’t notice it)
– A rundown of my crash course in Aztec culture

I hope you find some of this stuff as interesting as I do.

Spainsterdam!

About two months ago, Roxana and I went to Amsterdam to meet some of her friends for an insane Electronic Music show called Sensation Wild. Then, we went with some other friends to their hometowns in Spain: Alicante and Murcia.

Amsterdam was probably exactly what you think it was, because I’m the last person in the world to visit that city. Four things sum it up, though–canals, red lights, Heineken and “Coffee Shops.” And really old buildings. So five things.

As awesome as Amsterdam was, Spain was more interesting. We stayed with our friends at their parents’ houses, so that’s probably why. We drank a lot of Sangria, went out for Tapas, spent about 99% of each day on the beach, spoke Spanish, and took naps at 1pm with the rest of Spain. Delightful.

Before I squander this opportunity to keep the writing to a minimum: pictures and videos!

AMSTERDAM

SPAIN

SENSATION WILD

Thanks to my obsession with recording things, I grabbed a few clips from this ridiculous show while we were there. It’s in the Amsterdam Arena. If you only watch one video, make it the first one in this playlist. I burst into flames every time I watch it.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLQtzeUN52uswsZ8gzUAPb6RSlOkHjdgnd]