German Customer Service: A Primer

In two days, I will have been living in Munich for a full year. During this time, I’ve come to know many German customs, many of which are similar to Texan customs. For instance, Texas microbrews often taste very similar to the big dogs of Bavaria (especially the dark ones). Additionally, if you’re a Texan, write down a list of reasons why sunny, warm weather is awesome. I guarantee one of those items is a variation of “go outside with a bunch of friends and inhale all of the meat, bread, potatoes and beer I can.” Indeed, a German day at the Biergarten is a Texan Barbeque with less sauce. Munich is the liberal city in an otherwise totally conservative Bavaria. Sound familiar, Austinites? There’s even a Bavarian secessionist microculture. Did you know that? Between the tacos and the sausage, the country music and the salsa music, the Dos Equis and the Shiner Bock, I could swear that Texas is what you get when Germany and Mexico have a baby.

But, there is one aspect of German culture that differs almost entirely from U.S. (and especially Texan) culture. That aspect is customer service.

In Texas, working with customer service is hardly a breeze–it is the outermost extremity of the corporate body, lacking anything that even resembles autonomy, after all. However, you could often describe the experience as helpful or at the very least informative. Imagine an American insurance firm asks for your name. You answer. What is nearly always the next noise to leave the service rep’s mouth? If you said “Can you please spell that for me?” then you and I are on exactly the same page. Welcome to the blog.

Now, imagine things go awry. Some information tied to your account has been revealed to be incorrect. Or, maybe you missed a deadline because you misunderstood their rules. After you bring it up to the service rep, you’ll hear two things. The first is an apology. They probably don’t even owe you one, but they’re going to express some sort of sympathy for the way you feel. They might not even mean it, but they’ll say it. The second thing you’ll hear is typing. They, like their German counterparts, have a customer information database literally at their fingertips, and they are using it (unlike their German counterparts) to guide their end of the conversation. By the end of the call, you will certainly know 1) if anything is wrong 2) why and 3) if you need to do anything to fix it.

I’m about to tell you three personal stories about my interactions with customer service in Germany. If you find your mind trying to escape your head while you read, take a break, call Apple and tell them that you broke your iPad. It doesn’t matter if you don’t own one.

Before I begin, I should mention that I spoke German in each of these encounters. A German friend of mine asked me if I had, when I told her about them. She had originally supposed that I had tried to speak English, and that the representative was too embarrassed to admit they couldn’t understand me, or that they were turned off by my assumption that non-German was okay. So, now we’ve cleared that up.

Story One: “All Set!” (Techniker Krankenkasse Health Insurance)

Techniker Krankenkasse is a popular public health insurance firm. They’re an extremely good pick if you make under (I think) 55,000 Euros per year, if you’re a student, or if your employer covers more than half of your insurance bill. For instance, they only charge students $80 per month. That is an extremely good rate. I went with them last year, when I applied to the other Master’s program.

When the Master’s program didn’t accept me, I became ineligible for coverage with them, so I had to resign. I sent in my cancellation letter and waited a few days for a response. Nothing. I went to their office to speak to them about it personally, and thus began this customer service experience.

“Hi!” I said to the receptionist. “I would like to speak to someone about my insurance contract, please.”

“Naturally,” she replied with a smile. “What is your birth date?”

I told her.

“Thank you. Have a seat, and I will call you when someone is available.”

I sat for maybe 5 minutes. If one good thing can be said about TK’s people, it’s that they’re available.

“Welcome, my name is [someone]. Come to my desk and I’ll help you.” He spoke in short sentences at a very calming pace. A young guy with a smile, he was the picture of customer service.

I followed him to his desk.

“Please have a seat,” he beckoned. “What can I do for you?” The computer next to him had fallen asleep before I arrived.

“Thank you. I recently sent in a cancellation letter. I haven’t heard back from you guys, so I wanted to come in and ask about the status of my account.”

“Ah, okay, no problem. We just need to make a copy of your Visa and your alternative insurance card.” The computer next to him was still asleep.

“No problem.” I gave him both. He went away for five minutes.

When he returned, he handed me my things. “Thank you! We now have your information on file.”

I waited for him to finish. Then, I realized he already had. He was looking at me.

“Oh, um, so I’m done? Do I need to do anything else to make this official?”

The computer was in REM by this point. “Nope! Everything’s clear and your cancellation is final. You don’t need to do anything else.”

“Perfect!” I smiled. That was easy. I left.

Two weeks later, my phone is ringing and the number doesn’t have a name attached to it. I never like these calls. When I answer, it’s a lady from TK. She’s speaking German, which is incredibly hard to understand over the phone when you’re learning it.

“I’m so sorry,” I interrupt. “I’m learning German, but I’m not yet so good at it, and it’s hard to hear over the phone. Is it okay if we speak English?”

“Ah, I’m very sorry,” she replies. “I’m not so good in English. Is there any way German will work for you?”

I relent, since I can always say I don’t understand and put the ball back in her court.

“Ah, super!” she exclaims. “I’m calling about your cancellation notice. It seems there’s one detail that wasn’t communicated to you. We require that customers give their cancellation notices two months in advance. We will therefore need to continue billing you for the plan for two more months.”

Considering I wasn’t eligible for insurance through them in the first place, I’m surprised I had to cancel at all. But, I try to understand. “Really?” I reply. “Okay.”

“Super! So, you understand that we will need to bill you for two more months?”

“Yes, I do.”

“Okay, great! Have a good day.”

I wonder if I could have refused her. Wonderboy told me two weeks before that everything was cancelled and that I was all done. He appeared to be psychic, since his computer never made a noise while I was with him. I assumed I should just trust him.

Thanks, Wonderboy.

Story Two: “We Have Nothing For You.” (Hugendubel Book Store)

Two days ago, I went to the German equivalent of Barnes ‘n Noble to pick up my new German coursebook. My teacher had said that she reserved a copy of the book for each of us, so that nobody would be bookless on day one. That is an extremely thoughtful teacher. Here’s how my conversations with Info Man and Checkout Lady played out.

I begin with Info Man. If he exists, I always begin with him. I approach his counter and wait for him to acknowledge me.

He does, but a coworker of his is next to him, yelling things into the side of his head. His look says “How can I help you?” but his situation is telling me either to come back later or knock his coworker out with a rubber hammer.

I wait for his coworker to pause her tirade. She doesn’t. Info Man is still looking at me expectantly while she keeps going. I feel awkward. Time to speak over her, I guess.

“Hi,” I shout. “My teacher reserved a book for me. Can you please tell me how I can get it?”

“Ah, you must go to the cashier. She can help you there.”

“Thank you.” I walk away, leaving the shrill sound of Coworker behind me.

At the counter, I tell Cashier Lady what I told Info Man.

“I can help you. Under which name is the book?” She asks.

“Laib.” I reply.

She types the name into her computer. A puzzled look drips down her face. “We don’t have it.”

My instinct is telling me to trust her. However, she never asked me to spell the name I mentioned. That gives me doubts. Maybe she heard the name, assumed it’s German and typed “Leib.”

“Are you sure?” I ask. “Laib” with an “a.”

“Ah, okay.” She retypes. Again, she’s puzzled. “No, we don’t have it.”

“L-A-I-B” I spell out the name for her, punching the “B” as hard as I could. Maybe she heard a “D” the first time.

“Hmmm.” She types one last time. “Ah, yes. We do have it. Let me get it for you.”

I can only assume that she heard “Leid,” not “Laib,” and missed two of the four letters in that name. However, she asked me precisely 0 times how to spell it, or to clarify the name by speaking more clearly. The idea that a mistake occurred never crossed her mind.

It’s taking me awhile to get used to that tendency.

Story Three: “I Promise, You Ordered These.” (Schwabing Cafe)

Last night was my weekly tandem meetup with my partner Katharina. A tandem partner is a person with whom you meet weekly in order to teach one another each’s native language. For the past year, Katharina and I have obviously been exchanging German and English.

Anyway, last night we drank beers at the Schwabing Cafe down the street from my apartment. We talked for a little over an hour before deciding to part ways. Thus began this story’s customer service encounter.

Seeing empty glasses, our waitress reappeared to ask a question. Neither of us heard it, because we were talking at the time. We assumed she asked us if we were done.

In any case, we both responded with “We’d like to pay, please.”

“Ok, sounds good,” the waitress replied. “It was a Weissbier and an Alcohol Free Weissbier, right?”

“Right,” I answered.

We waited and talked a little more, until we began to feel like the wait for our check was becoming abnormally long. Maybe she just got distracted.

The she returned with a full Weissbier and a full Alcohol Free Weissbier. What?

“Oh, no!” Katharina exclaimed. “We were wanting to pay.”

The waitress was visibly upset. “Are you serious? I asked you if you wanted two more, and you said you would.”

“No,” Katharina replied. “We said we wanted to pay.”

“Well, what am I supposed to do with these drinks?” the waitress used her eyes, presumably to blame us into submission.

“You’ll have to take them back,” Katharina advised. “We can’t drink them.”

The waitress sighed heavily, and huffed back into the restaurant. A minute later, she appeared with the check.

As we paid, Katharina said “Sorry. Next time we’ll speak more clearly.” I’m pretty sure that was Waitress’s line.

“Yeah.” Waitress spoke flatly and with a frown. She took our money and left without another word.

The KVR: Journey’s End

This morning was, as far as I can tell, the final hour I will need to spend in the Kreisverwaltungsreferat (the KVR) for a long time. As I mentioned yesterday, I had to return in order to correct an error on my visa extension. Namely, the expiration date was three months too early.

I blamed Cashier Lady, since she was responsible for taking my money and passing the print order through to Window Guy. I supposed it could have been Window Guy’s bad as well, but I was looking at the process from the outside. From there, Window Guy might as well be Cashier Lady. Naturally, then, I started this morning with Cashier Lady.

*****

“Good morning!” Admittedly, I’m projecting more patience than I actually possess. I’m missing another German class for this.

“Good morning.” Cashier Lady slides her fingertips under the glass that separates us. There’s not a chance she wants or expects anything other than documents.

“I was here yesterday,” I begin. Disappointment floods her eyes while her fingertips remain out of reach of my precious, precious documents. I press on, though. Get it all out before she dismisses you out of habit. “-and received and extension for my Visa. But, there’s a small problem with the new pass. The letter the office gave me says I have six months to confirm university enrollment. The pass, however, says that I only have 3 months.”

“You have to go to the student area.” She’s pointing at the heading on the letter I handed her.

Invalid command.

“Well, the student office gave me the correct letter. The problem is that I received the incorrect pass down here, yesterday.”

“There’s nothing I can do for you, here. You need to go back upstairs.”

Oh, no. Not back upstairs. Anywhere but back upstairs. Upstairs is where I spent 2.5 hours of my day, yesterday. Upstairs is where Desk Lady lives. Don’t make me go back upstairs.

“Ok. Thank you for your help.” For some reason, you always have to say that in these situations.

I’m going upstairs.

Remarkably, there are only 4 people on line upstairs. It’s a full hour after the KVR opened. Fearing that mentally questioning it will make it go away, I slide into line as fast as I can before I wake up and I’m behind 100 more people. I survey the staff behind the desk. There’s a new Desk Lady. And, Office Lady is standing next to her! Ha! Maybe she’ll remember me and will wonder why I’m here and then we’ll all share a hilarious laugh while she corrects the mistake on the spot. How fun that will be.

The four people in front of me are having problems, getting pwned like proper noobs. I can’t watch.

Soon enough, it’s my turn. “Good morning!” I smile.

“Good morning.” Desk Lady’s not unhappy, but she’s not smiling. Smiling is for Office Lady.

I tell her the exact same story I told Cashier Lady.

“Is the problem with your Passport? When does it expire?”

“2019. I have plenty of time before that one goes bad.”

I hand her my documents. She looks them over for a few seconds, and finally hands them to Office Lady.

Now, Office Lady’s talking. “Ah, yes there is actually a problem. Please find a seat, and I’ll call you in a minute.” A KVR experience without a waiting room is a pizza without cheese.

A few minutes go by. The waiting room is outrageously full. I’m pretty sure Office Lady runs the bottleneck of this operation.

And she’s back, smiling like it was yesterday. “I’ve arranged to have your pass fixed, now. You can just take this paper downstairs and the cashier will print you a new one. Of course, you don’t have to pay anything more.”

I’m smiling again. “Thank you very much for your help. Have a great day.”

“Likewise.”

On my way downstairs, I’m feeling really curious about the new paper Office Lady just handed me. It’s just like the one I handed Cashier Lady yesterday, except that it says “0.00 Euros” on it. It’s extremely light on text, but it does sport a reference number and a fancy bar code right below the heading. Suddenly, it dawns on me: Cashier Lady turning me down without explanation, Cashier Lady sending me back to Desk Lady, Office Lady doing all the thinking, my text-light message for Cashier Lady, and its bar code and reference number. Cashier Lady didn’t make the mistake, yesterday. It must have been Office Lady!

Office Lady! We had such a good thing, together. She smiled. She helped. She thought independently and needed no codified commands in order to do her job. She messed up.

That bar code must be a reference to information in a database–information that Office Lady inputs when she asks you to wait 40 minutes in the hallway. Cashier Lady must pass the sheet of paper to Window Man, who then simply scans the bar code. Doing that must initiate an automated printout of the document authorized by Office Lady. Office Lady!

Maybe, with “6 months” on the mind, she entered “Month: 6” into her system. Maybe the “9” in her head for “September” flipped itself without telling her, causing her to input the dastardly “6” instead. Maybe she liked my shoes and wanted to see them again.

I suppose there are a number of things that could have inspired the mistake. Maybe they’ll find a cure for humanity, one day. In any case, as I remember the past 3 weeks and reflect on the KVR Process–emotional computers, endless wait times, invalid commands and human errors–I can’t help but continue to think of Office Lady fondly. I think that, in a world of processing and checklists and appointments and eligibility requirements, what matters more than anything is personality. I’ll take the warm, helpful representative over the 100% effective one any day.

Not that I have any choice in the matter.

How I Got My Visa Extended

It’s 7:20 in the morning. As I leave the U-Bahn station at Poccistrasse, I see a crowd of other sleepy-eyed foreigners standing outside the Kreisverwaltungsreferat (the KVR). Presumably, everyone on line is here to obtain or extend a visa, but the KVR may offer other services, so I’m not sure. An old man in front of me with hedges for eyebrows stares at a newspaper with his mouth open for who knows how many minutes. He likely won’t be joining me in the student line. A girl about my age is further up, at the very front of the line. She’s leaning inward toward the door slightly, and she’s tracing the items on her checklist with her finger, head positioned nearly below her shoulders. I imagine she’s a runner and that she’ll be my competition for a place in line.

Ten minutes go by. I can hear anxious murmuring ahead of me as the crowd ball starts to shift. Someone somewhere is unlocking a door.

It’s the handicapped door, at the far end of the entrance. An anxious young guy edges past me in order to weave through the crowd toward it. Waiting for the door in front of us to open is for noobs, I guess. A second later, a KVR employee is unlocking our door. The murmuring starts in our section of the crowd, and I feel pressure on my back. The KVR employee slides out of the way of the door, and I learn that everyone is a runner. It’s November 19, 2006 in the US, and the Nintendo Wii just went on sale.

I walk in, dodging runners as they fly by me on their way to whichever line offers the visa they need. I’m on my way to the 2nd floor, but luckily it’s pretty close to the stairwell. Everyone seems to be avoiding that route, so I’m feeling pretty good about the likely length of my line. Nursing the pending nervous breakdown I’d given shelter in my stomach over the weekend, I push open the stairwell doors. I hear sharp breathing as a girl of maybe 26 hurries past me as I inadvertently hold the door open for her. You’re welcome. I enjoy a laugh at the ridiculousness of everyone’s anxiety and continue upward.

About a minute later, I’m in line behind 6 people. This isn’t bad at all–the line ends before the doorway out of the room. I have 4.5 hours to get through this, and maybe 3 waiting areas. Awesome. A crowd of maybe 7 runners sighs its way into line behind me. That’s funny.

Four people make it through the front desk in about as many seconds, after simply handing Desk Lady their application checklist. How on Earth did they do that? There’s no time to ask, though–I’m almost next.

The next guy approaches Desk Lady. His native language is Spanish, but he stutters through some German. Maybe it’s because he’s still learning, or maybe it’s because he’s nervous. I don’t know which it is, but I absolutely relate to both.

“I need to get a Visa, please.”

“Do you have your application?” Desk Lady tells her computer screen.

“Um, no I don’t.”

“Why not?” She still hasn’t looked up from her screen.

“Um. Well, can I go fill it out and bring it back to you?”

“Go fill it out. Next.”

He’s a tough act to follow. “Hi, I would like an extension for my Visa, please.”

“I need to see your documents.”

“Naturally.” I’m trying to be as humble as possible. In my experience, working with Desk Lady and Desk Man is working with an emotionally sensitive computer. Every text string that leaves my mouth or appears on any of my papers must match the string stored in their memory. Unless I annoy them. In that case, they add new text strings to their memory and penalize me for an invalid command.

I produce my Visa application and my checklist.

“Financial support?” She wants evidence that I won’t be a burden on the German welfare system.

“Yep.” I hand her a pay stub of Roxana’s and a note signed by Roxana naming her my source of financial support.

“This is all you have?”

That is the question of nightmares. Every bit of that nervous breakdown I mentioned before was rooted in the possibility of hearing that exact question. Oh, dear God.

“Well, yes. It indicates that my time here is sustainable, no?”

“Who is Roxana?”

“She’s my girlfriend.”

“She needs to come here with you. Notes like this only work when support comes from your parents.”

My argument: “Oh. Really?”

She looks back at her computer screen and types for ten seconds. She looks back to me. After five more seconds, she slides her chair back, hits a button and hands me a waiting room ticket.

Valid command!

I’m number 108, so I find a seat in the waiting room and melt into it. This is as far as I’ve made it since I received my first Visa a year ago. Run free, pending nervous breakdown.

It’s going to be awhile until they call me. One new number appears on the board every 7-10 minutes. I pull out A Feast for Crows and start reading. George R.R. Martin is your best friend in a government waiting room. Cersei’s angry.

1.5 hours go by, and my number finally appears on the board. I’m ecstatic. It’s the moment of truth. Time to meet with Office Lady.

I open her door, and I’m greeted by a smile sitting in front of a view of the courtyard. Office Lady is always nicer than Desk Lady.

“Good morning!” I say, as humbly as ever.

“Good morning!” she replies. “How can I help you?”

“Well, I’m wondering if it would be okay if we speak in English? I can speak German, but my vocabulary on the subject of Visas and the law is really small.”

She smiles, looking a bit unsure. “Yes, I can try.”

“Thank you so much. I’m applying to graduate school, here, and in order to finish the process I need to extend my Visa. Specifically, I’m looking for one called Section 16, paragraph 1-”

“Slow down, slow down. I need to see your documents, first.”

That’s interesting. Desk Lady would have wanted me to spell out the exact nature of my request. Office Lady is ready to decide on her own what they can offer me. I always liked Office Lady. I hand her all of my documents.

“And do you have proof of eligibility for University?”

I’m glad you asked! Is what I want to say. Instead, I say “Yes, I do. I have 4 types, in case you prefer any one of them.”

I show her my grad school application, my original diplomas from UT Austin, my official sealed transcript from UT Austin, and my grad school acceptance letter from last year (the University accepted me, but the specific program to which I applied rejected me). One of them is bound to convince her that I’m eligible for a Master’s degree here.

“I think the diplomas are sufficient,” Office Lady laughs. “Please wait outside for a few minutes while I process these. I’ll come get you when I’m done.”

I wait in the hallway for 40 minutes. I still feel good about Office Lady, though.

Finally, her door opens and she pokes her head through the doorway. “You can come back, now.”

“I was able to extend your visa. Before this extension expires, though, you have to bring proof that you were accepted into your Master’s program back here. Then, we will give you a normal student visa.”

It’s okay, Office Lady. I am more than familiar with the drill. “That’s perfect,” I say as she asks me to sign the document that confirms the details of the extension. It’s in German legalese, but I can make out an effective period of six months, and a line that says failure means leaving Germany.

“Just to make sure: this says that I have six months to bring back proof of enrollment. Right? So, by October?”

“Well, yes. Actually you have until September 30.”

Fantastic. “Thanks so much for your help!”

“It’s no problem. Have a good day.”

Office Lady is great.

The rest is easy. All I have to do is make my way downstairs and pay for this thing. 20 euros and 2.5 hours, and I’m done.

********

It’s noon, and I decide I want to examine my new Visa up close. It’s different than what I received last time–a sticker stuck to a rectangular stub rather than inside my passport. It’s also called a “Reisepass” this time, instead of an “Aufenthaltserlaubnis.” That’s strange.

And then: “Valid until: June 30, 2014.” Holy nuts. Cashier Lady did not just do that.

So, I’m going back to the KVR tomorrow morning to correct this mistake. I love the KVR.

Staying in Germany for Noobs

Renewing my visa is just about finished. That “just about” part is what makes the story worth telling, by the way.

I’ve been here for a year. Specifically, my language student visa expires next Saturday, April 5. I’m applying to grad school, so there’s a problem with that. Namely, I can’t finish the application process in the United States. What I’m doing, then, is applying for a Student Application Visa. It’s a visa that gives you 9 months to get accepted into a university while living in Germany. Once you’re accepted, you can show the acceptance letter to the Kreisverwaltungsreferat (the KVR), and they upgrade you to a 3-year Student Visa. Or, it’s a 2-year visa with the automatic option to extend it a year at the end in order to find a job. I forget how that one works.

I went in two weeks ago with all of my materials in hand, ready to get that visa. If you’re from the US or one of a group of other countries, then the process is simple. Last time, for example, I was given my visa before I left the building. But, as is usual with the KVR, you never just have to go one time. You’re always missing a document, or a document is missing one critical detail, or you arrived 1 minute too late and they stopped giving out waiting room tickets because the office is only open 5 hours a day. Last time, my problem was that I didn’t have confirmation that I was admitted to the university. It was the beginning of March, so my brain exploded from each of my ears.

How can I get confirmation of acceptance, when the application process doesn’t end until May 31? Well, after the representatives behind the counter spoke among themselves in >B2 level German, they told me that I can bring proof that I’m eligible to attend the university, and that would suffice. The confusion alone was enough to baffle me–I had said that I wanted to extend my visa in order to complete the application process. There is a visa for exactly that purpose. Why were they acting like I was asking for a full student visa this early?

In any case, I resigned to the obligatory first-visit failure and went home to wrap up my application and get confirmation from the university that I applied.

Two weeks later, and I’m done with all of that stuff. I’ve finished my admissions research paper (“The Role of Consumer Information in Public Policy”), obtained written confirmations for every item on my CV (yeah, you have to do that, here), and did battle with the insurance industry in order to get coverage for an adequate amount of time (more on that in a future post). This morning, I had my application documents in hand and a pending nervous breakdown in limbic system. The KVR is open on Friday from 7:30am until noon. I was set to arrive at the end of the inevitable line by 9am. Surely, 3 hours is plenty of time, especially considering that all of my requirements accompanied me, in order of necessity, in the most German folder I’ve ever assembled.

It wasn’t enough time. I was on line for 1.5 hours. At 10:30, I reached the counter, showed one representative my materials, and watched as she became 3 representatives. They discussed puzzlement over my lack of university acceptance, again, but eventually relented when I showed them the checklist given to me last time (which specifically left that bit out as a requirement). Finally, a member of the team told me that, unfortunately, the cutoff for handing out waiting room numbers had just passed. I would sadly need to come back on Monday.

“I have everything I need, right?” I asked. They will not send me home, again, on Monday.

“Exactly. You have everything. You’ve just come too late, today and need to come back on Monday.”

So now, I just have to wait three days and coddle this pending nervous breakdown. What are you supposed to feed these things, anyway?

Mexico City: It’s Crowded

I’m sure you’ve heard it before, but Mexico city is outrageously crowded. If, at any point in time, you aren’t looking at every car in the known universe, then you’re looking at every human being in the known universe. That much is clear and widely known.

What does that mean, though? What does the size of the city’s crowd have to do with life in that city? That’s the tasty question. I’m going to try and answer it.

First, we’ll whet our appetites with some data. How crowded, exactly, is Mexico City? I’m super excited right now, you guys.

If the green cells are the highest for a dimension, and the orange cells are second-highest, then the data set my pants on fire when I looked at them for the first time. I’ve always paired “Mexico City” with “20 million people” and “one of the most crowded places on Earth.” That’s a huge number of people making a sardine can out of a city, according to my original ideas. That means I also routinely say things that link those ideas when I go on about how crowded Mexico City probably is. That also means I’ve been saying the wrong things. Can someone please lend me some pants?

Crowded Center

The data suggest something different, though. In fact, the place with the ungodly-enormous population is Greater Mexico City, otherwise known as the Federal District of Mexico City, otherwise known as a semi-state (I don’t know for sure, but it seems to function similarly to Washington D.C.). Mexico City (the city) has a population way closer to something we would see in the US. New York has a very similar population, for example.  Overseas, London’s population is also just about the same as Mexico City’s. And just forget about Asia. Even the smallest of its top 10 cities–Manila–has twice the population of Mexico City.

But population isn’t a measure of crowdedness, is it? Population density is the data set from which all of the sense comes. The 21-million-person Federal District’s density is around 2,000 people per square kilometer. That’s more dispersion than in Munich, and Munich feels like the least crowded city on the face of the planet. Mexico City’s (the city) density, however, is around 5,000 people per square kilometer. That’s a lot, and it means its about as dense as Manila, the 10th largest city in Asia. Ahhh, now I understand why I felt like I needed a bulldozer to cross the street in Mexico City.

Ok, you get it. Mexcio City: it’s crowded. For some extra fun, though, consider this other data.

Required Population Growth of Select Cities

If you really want to know how crowded Mexico City is, look at the data above. I’m pretty sure most of you reading this have been to at least one of those cities. Imagine over 3 times the number of people currently living in Houston! Imagine Venice growing by a factor of more than 8! Dallas growing by a factor of almost 4! Holy cow! Those would have to happen for those cities to feel as highly populated as Mexico City (the city).

This post–well, the rest of a post which already happens to be well underway–is about 3 ways the hyper dense population of Mexico City (the city) affected my time there.

Cityscape1. It takes over an hour to take a bus across town.

I escorted La Señora (more on Roxana’s mom in a future post) to a checkup at the Doctor’s office in the middle of the city. We began our journey at the south end of the city. I read a chapter and a half in my book before we reached the office. Two things about that:

  • I analyze while I read, so I’m a slow reader.
  • My book is A Feast for Crows. Oktoberfest is to beer as that book and the others in its series are to analyzable content.

If I knew the name of the doctor’s office, I could have just given you the distance we traveled in kilometers so you could compare it to the time it would take you to travel that distance in your city. Enjoy the overly complicated alternative.

Anyway, while most freeways on Earth are designed to facilitate transportation around a city, Periférico and, indeed, the rest of Mexico City’s streets, appeared designed for car storage instead. They were crowded all day and night, is what I’m trying to say. You should never take “a quick trip across town” lightly in Mexico City, is what I’m trying to say.

Looks Quiet2. LOOOOOOOOUUUUD NOISES!!!!

Peace and Quiet are Aztec relics in Mexico City. If you look hard enough, you’ll see vestiges of an era when the two may have existed–a library here, a small cafe there, a green park with some benches and a fountain way off in the distance. Mostly, however, you’ll find things that make a lot of noise, all the time.

You’ll wake up in the morning to Mexico City’s streetside symphony. I personally really enjoy the first movement, in which the jackhammer section unexpectedly accompany the sirens and car horns. It establishes a striking contrast that positively sets my soul on fire. Truly. You’ll eat lunch to the sound of what can only be a private Pitbull concert next door. When you ask your local friend why nobody complains, she’ll tell you (as Rox’s sister Karen told me) that it’s more likely that the police will just collect a bribe from the offenders and let them continue, anyway. And you’ll hear more of the streetside symphony. Finally, when they day is over and you seek the comfort of a long night’s rest, you’ll have the sweet sounds of diesel engines, Pitbull and the streetside symphony to lull you to sleep.

It’s noisy all the time, is what I’m trying to say.

Selling in a Park3. The food there is outrageously good.

The food truck/stand/kiosk/tent is to Mexico City as the YouTube channel is to the US and Canada. Absolute tons of people in the area possess the skills and the means to create at (at least) the amateur level. The result is that way more high-quality producers than any one person needs to know surface through social curation. And, if you get a kick out of discovery, then you’ll find a billion other options lining alleys, streets, freeways, parking lots, and store entrances everywhere.

“Hey. Pssst. On Tuesdays, find the dark alley behind the convenience store just off the freeway. There are some guys there who make spellbindingly good pastor tacos. Go on Tuesday, because they sell them two-for-one on that day.”

“Hey. Pssst. Go to YouTube and type in ‘Fast Food Lasagna.’ This group of Canadian guys  buy, like, 45 burgers and make lasagna out of them. It’s insane!”

Mexico City was an absolutely outstanding time, is what I’m trying to say.